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Kerala's backwaters, from a canoe not a cruise boat.
A local paddler eases a slender wooden canoe into canals too narrow for any tourist boat, gliding past coconut groves, kitchen gardens, and villagers going about an ordinary morning. This is the backwaters without the crowd — quiet enough to hear the paddle dip.
We route through canals our boatmen actually use to get around — not the ones built for tour groups.
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